A Wiki search for Gratin dauphinois revealed that it is usually served with ortolans. Naturally that needed to be looked up and I found this:
For centuries, a rite of passage for French gourmets was the eating of the Ortolan. These tiny birds—captured alive, force-fed, then drowned in Armagnac—were roasted whole and eaten [feet first] that way, bones and all, while the diner draped his head with a linen napkin to preserve the precious aromas and, some believe, to hide from God.
A Wiki search for Gratin dauphinois revealed that it is usually served with ortolans. Naturally that needed to be looked up and I found this:
For centuries, a rite of passage for French gourmets was the eating of the Ortolan. These tiny birds—captured alive, force-fed, then drowned in Armagnac—were roasted whole and eaten [feet first] that way, bones and all, while the diner draped his head with a linen napkin to preserve the precious aromas and, some believe, to hide from God.